An Inspiring Lecture by My Most Beloved MW, Jancis Robinson

I attended an inspiring lecture by MW, Jancis Robinson at Tai Kwun on the 4th of Nov. This was organized by the Hong Kong International Literary Festival. Another Hong Kong based MW, Jeannie Cho Lee was invited as a Mediator. Indeed, I am very surprised to find two MWs in a single event because it is very costly.

The format was more like a dialogue between these two knowledgeable ladies. It is causal without slides or power point. Jancis touched many interesting topics regarding wine and Jeannie contributed some insightful comments. I found one topics particularly interesting, Wine Trend. Per Jancis, there has been a trend to produce leaner, more refreshing and less oaky wine in the past two decades. There are two exceptions to this trend, Napa Valley and China.

Napa is immuted because it has such a high demand. All wines are allocated via wine clubs before releasing. Their drinkers love their style. Hence, there is no need to change, at least from a point of sales or marketing.

Regarding China, it is a totally different ball game. Per Jeannie, the Chinese market is still very young. Consumers are not very sophisticated in general. Their "first wine experience" most likely will be a red, probably a Cabernet Sauvignon with oak, 99% using oak chips instead of French barrique, made by big producers like Great Wall and Changyue. These big names targeting the general public will continue with the old style, as concentration and oak are "indicators of quality" to these consumers. On the other hand, nowadays, it is more common from Chinese wineries to hire foreign wine makers as consultants. If so, they will certainly follow the new trend.

Both Jancis and Jeannie, agreed that for some instances, the pendulum has swung too far. They found some wines are getting too lean. Grapes were picked too green and wines are grassy.

In my opinion, trends do come and go. As a drinker, it is important to find our own palate. There is nothing to be ashame if you happen to love Big Oaky wine while everyone prefers more refreshing lean wine. After all, wines are for enjoyment and we all have the right to choose!

Article by: Chris LEUNG